Marine Tank Exhaust System
All the experts in the industry understand the problem and the correct solution to solving sewer odors in a boat.
"Solve the Problem at the Source" by changing an anaerobic environment in the tank to aerobic.
Up until now the only way to accomplish this is with the installation of an air pump gurgling air inside the waste tank fluids.
Our system does a similar task but by aggressively providing a cross-flow of fresh air inside the tank, simultaneously exhausting the stale air.
Instead of using power and mechanical means we utilize the ambient external air movement around the boat.
Please watch the short you tube video below
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This is our first introduction to the system. We are not in production yet, but will be making some demo units.
If you have a boat with sewer odor issues and are willing to try this system please contact us
ronparry55@gmail.com
If you have a boat with sewer odor issues and are willing to try this system please contact us
ronparry55@gmail.com
Marine Tank Exhaust System
FAQ’s
Note 1: Almost half a million RV’s have our exhaust vent on the roof top, as far as we know the success rate of no odors is 100%. The standard RV vent size is 1 ½”, recent years we have seen the manufactures use 1 ¼” to save costs. We have many customers running two tanks to our vent. RV tanks range from 40 -60 gallons. Our new marine vent has the same draw rate as our RV Vent “360 Siphon” . The “Exhaust Tunnel” will accommodate up to a 1 ½” mushroom thru hull.
Note 2: To speed up the aerobic action. Immediately after a pump out put in a good enzyme/ bacteria to initiate the breakdown process.
Note 3: We have been conducting airflow test for over 15 years on exhaust vs intake for our RV sewer applications.. Even with a reduction of 10 time’s smaller intake than exhaust, the airflow restriction was only 10 %. A strong draw will increase the velocity of the air entering the system rather than severely restricting it. The existing vents used on boats are usually fuel tank vents with a very dense fine mesh screen which is restrictive. We suggest removing the screen
FAQ’s
- Why is another vent hole required in the tank? A single opening will not create airflow, there must be both an intake and exhaust opening
- Why actively pull out fumes? By forcing out the tank atmosphere, fresh air is drawn in, eliminating the production of odours gasses
- Why not blow air in? For two reasons, we do not have a high pressure vent that works in all wind conditions. In addition, a slight high pressure in the tank in not ideal, a low pressure pulls fumes out.
- Is the existing vent hose and hull fitting big enough to be used as intake? Yes, it is much smaller but will be sufficient as intake. Worst case, remove the vent screen and insure the opening is clear. ( Note 3)
- Is the 1” exhaust hose and thru hull big enough? In smaller tanks 20 -30 gallons we think it will be suffice, for larger tanks we suggest the 1 ½” system, as in RV’s. (see note 1 below)
- Why not put a carbon filter in the exhaust line? The filter will restrict the flow of air, the opposite of what we are attempting to accomplish.
- Does the mushroom thru hull exhaust? Yes it does. With a head wind and no turbulence it will draw a little. (the tunnel cover amplifies it by 5 times) Unfortunately if the incoming wind is on a slight angle from the broad side (even as low as 20 degrees) the draw will stop, around 30 degree wind will blow into the port.
- What happens if there is no wind? The vent cover will exhaust with any air movement, even waves and rain will create a draw. Anchored, at dock or while running a low pressure will be created.
- All the fittings on the side of the hull are almost flush, is this vent protruding 1 .5 in necessary? Absolutely necessary, otherwise the aeration process will be compromised resulting in draw rate is vastly reduced, again defeating the purpose of the system. In addition an unprotected vent opening will allow high pressure, not preferred.
- Where is the ideal location for the thru hull and vent cover? Try to position the vent centered between two fenders, further from wind obstructions the better, remember we want as much airflow as possible. We positioned the test boat install about 18” off the water line. Obviously that can change due to boat configurations and size. You don’t want the hose to be lower than the thru hull due to water possibly collecting, clogging the system.
- Does it matter how long the new exhaust hose it? No, the draw rate is strong enough from the “Tunnel Cover” that the hose run does not matter. Same goes for the original vent hose (now the intake), as long as that 5/8 hose and vent are clear. Good idea to open up the screens on those vents
- The vent cover is made of light plastic, its in a vulnerable situation. Yes it is. If the shape of the cover is altered in any way it will not perform at its max. The plastic will temporarily bend, not break in a light impact. If a hard impact it will break, not causing damage to the hull.
- What do we put in the tank for a treatment? Never use bleach or any other chemical! We suggest an organic enzyme based sewer treatment. A good product that assists in aerobic breakdown immediately after the tank is emptied (rinsing is not as important now). (see note 2)
Note 1: Almost half a million RV’s have our exhaust vent on the roof top, as far as we know the success rate of no odors is 100%. The standard RV vent size is 1 ½”, recent years we have seen the manufactures use 1 ¼” to save costs. We have many customers running two tanks to our vent. RV tanks range from 40 -60 gallons. Our new marine vent has the same draw rate as our RV Vent “360 Siphon” . The “Exhaust Tunnel” will accommodate up to a 1 ½” mushroom thru hull.
Note 2: To speed up the aerobic action. Immediately after a pump out put in a good enzyme/ bacteria to initiate the breakdown process.
Note 3: We have been conducting airflow test for over 15 years on exhaust vs intake for our RV sewer applications.. Even with a reduction of 10 time’s smaller intake than exhaust, the airflow restriction was only 10 %. A strong draw will increase the velocity of the air entering the system rather than severely restricting it. The existing vents used on boats are usually fuel tank vents with a very dense fine mesh screen which is restrictive. We suggest removing the screen